Catemaco is an isolated pueblo nestled along a freshwater lake in the Tuxtla mountain range of eastern Mexico. The approach into the Tuxtla mountains had no direct route for us, as we arrived from the northwest with two route options. Option one: somewhat out of the way with more ground to cover, but nicer highway. Option numero dos: what appears to be a shorter path directly into Catemaco, but on a less traveled road according to the atlas. [Important Life Lesson]: There will always be a time in a road trip when you make a decision and realize you screwed the pooch. This was one of those moments. It was our first venture off the main highway, onto an unfamiliar and secluded road. I literally, put my hand over my mouth for the entire 38 kilometer ride....fighting the urge to yell 'I TOLD YOU WE SHOULD HAVE GONE THE OTHER DIRECTION' as we bobbed and weaved crater-sized potholes for over two hours. At the end of the day, I chalked it up to a travel adventure WAY off the beaten path and was thankful for Sam's technical driving skills which got us to our destination safely.
[Where Were We Again?...]: Naturally, we had picked the worst of the two roads; no services, isolated dirt roads. Yep, we even encountered a chain being held across the road, impeding our passage until we paid two seven year old boys to proceed. Our decision not to camp, quickly became the best choice we made all day. A torrential downpour of rain from Hurricane Arthur slammed Catemaco for the next two days.
[Where Were We Again?...]: Naturally, we had picked the worst of the two roads; no services, isolated dirt roads. Yep, we even encountered a chain being held across the road, impeding our passage until we paid two seven year old boys to proceed. Our decision not to camp, quickly became the best choice we made all day. A torrential downpour of rain from Hurricane Arthur slammed Catemaco for the next two days.
Catemaco's claim to fame is witchcraft and sorcery. Medicinal plants are plentiful in the dense tropical jungle and traditional medicine is commonly practiced. Historically, the Aztecs identified the importance of healers in a society and developed a very successful system of using plants for medicine. Many of these ancient mystical practices still continue throughout the indigenous communities of Mexico. In the 70's one of the most famous male witches organized a witchcraft convention in Catemaco; taking place annually on the first Friday of March, beginning in the early morning hours with a black mass.
As we strolled down the waterfront for dinner, we were enticed by everything Catemaco has to offer: a brujo [male witch], a water taxi to the island of monkeys, high quality Cuban cigars, massages. What I was once very excited about quickly fizzled; I was disenchanted by the commercialized healing practices which preys on tourists.
Being a tourist is hard work. Driving in Mexico is even harder. We were exhausted and Casa Rosa was the perfect hideaway; allowing us to ditch the tent for the rainy weekend and sprawl out. The owner is a fantastic host who loves dogs, grows superb coffee and has beautiful adornments lining the pepto-pink walls of her abode.
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All tuckered out & snuggled up with Sammy.
Its funny how you become accustomed to being so closely positioned to your travel partners...once outside of the car and tent; inside our cozy room, I almost felt a bit of separation anxiety.
Curious About Our Road Trip Through Mexico?
Check Out Our Road Logs:
Mexico By Road...[Days 1-5]
Mexico By Road...[Days 6-13]
Mexico By Road...[Days 14-20]
Mexico By Road...[Days 21-28]
Mexico By Road...[Days 29-34]
Check Out Our Road Logs:
Mexico By Road...[Days 1-5]
Mexico By Road...[Days 6-13]
Mexico By Road...[Days 14-20]
Mexico By Road...[Days 21-28]
Mexico By Road...[Days 29-34]
