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We spend ninety-five percent of our free time surfing. It is our therapy, exercise, meditation. Lately, it is becoming more of our social scene; as people are starting to recognize us. A simple head nod or buenos días as we paddle out.
Sammy and I have improved exponentially; but still get a good beat down occasionally. Popping up from a belly flop or face plant, I know the chances are good that Sammy will have a tilted grin on his face when I look over at him. Sadly, he was not the person to experience this week's 'beat down'. Caught inside on my paddle back out another surfer was riding towards me and was not looking at me...the short version is that I got demolished by the shore break and washing machined, along the sand. When I stood up, my top was off and the 'ladies' were peering out into the world and my bottoms were dangling around my knees. Gathering my surfboard was my top priority; until I realized there was a man standing in the water about 5 feet from me. What can you do but laugh?!..and be thankful that nobody was taking photos. Even on days like this, there are very few things that make my heart pitter-patter with joy, like the ocean, sandy toes, & salty skin.
Sammy and I have improved exponentially; but still get a good beat down occasionally. Popping up from a belly flop or face plant, I know the chances are good that Sammy will have a tilted grin on his face when I look over at him. Sadly, he was not the person to experience this week's 'beat down'. Caught inside on my paddle back out another surfer was riding towards me and was not looking at me...the short version is that I got demolished by the shore break and washing machined, along the sand. When I stood up, my top was off and the 'ladies' were peering out into the world and my bottoms were dangling around my knees. Gathering my surfboard was my top priority; until I realized there was a man standing in the water about 5 feet from me. What can you do but laugh?!..and be thankful that nobody was taking photos. Even on days like this, there are very few things that make my heart pitter-patter with joy, like the ocean, sandy toes, & salty skin.
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