My love for Mexico has grown deeper. At the same time, my heart has been broken; aching for those who have allowed themselves to fear this country. Shame on you for perpetuating the rumors and angst. [News Flash]: you are cheating yourself of endless opportunities by making the choice to be afraid of this incredible country.
It is my deepest desire to inspire others to reconsider their opinions and give Mexico a fair chance. Sharing our adventures from this trip and our day-to-day lives has become one of my deepest passions. This country has changed me. Each day it teaches me something new; typically catching me off guard, by it's subtle life lessons. Although one or two have straight up bitch slapped me across the face; the vast majority make me smile and laugh, bigger and louder than ever before.
It is my deepest desire to inspire others to reconsider their opinions and give Mexico a fair chance. Sharing our adventures from this trip and our day-to-day lives has become one of my deepest passions. This country has changed me. Each day it teaches me something new; typically catching me off guard, by it's subtle life lessons. Although one or two have straight up bitch slapped me across the face; the vast majority make me smile and laugh, bigger and louder than ever before.
| Stay Up to Date With the Earlier Posts: Mexico By Road...[Days 1-5] Mexico By Road...[Days 6-13] Mexico By Road...[Days 14-20] Mexico By Road...[Days 21-28] |  Leave us some LOVE.... Like Team Fuber on Facebook & share our stories with others! By clicking the facebook logo to the left or at the bottom of our stories. |
Day 29 ~ July 25, 2014
Oaxaca
[Day Trip to Teotitlán del Valle]
Another day of exploring the small villages outside of Oaxaca. I left camp not overly excited or with high expectations; after all, I do not like Mezcal....[Pause & Truth Be Told]: I have never actually tried Mezcal but have taken the bold stance of consistently declaring I don't like it and refusing to try it....
[Back To The Topic At Hand]: Nor was I overly enthusiastic to learn about the ancient dying technique of rugs and spun wool by using local plants and insects. Oh was I wrong! Not about the mezcal; remember, I won't try it...I don't like it. Although the nerd in me, found the process of distilling the mezcal fascinating to learn about and observe. The 'fabrica' we visited is old school. The maguey plant is buried under a pile of dirt along with warm rocks; acting as an oven. A donkey is later used to pull a large stone wheel over the plant, to grind it up. Sam sampled various mezcals; with a side of ground up worms and orange slices, too. Yuck! I nearly puked in my mouth just watching the process. He purchased a few bottles [and a few small sacks of ground up worm mixed with chili and salt]... onward we went.
What began as a spontaneous stop on the outskirts of town quickly transpired into my favorite of all 34 days of travel. I fell in love with the couple who worked at the tapestry and wool store. Nearly an hour and a half was spent shopping and learning about their family tradition and practices of preparing, dying and transforming wool into beautiful rugs.
Locals came out of the shops to greet us as we strolled by; several bored shopkeepers began conversations with us, as if we had met years before. We sat down for lunch in the living room of a home offering a typical set lunch menu as well as the sale of handmade tapestries and wool rugs. We spent an hour or more observing the working of their household; grandma labored outback caring for the chickens, grandpa worked the loom ever so slowly and delicately and the dad popped his head in and out of the kitchen, as mom prepared our lunch. Our dogs rested under the table after a long day of site seeing alongside of us.
With our newly discovered knowledge and respect for the local traditions of this tiny village, we drove away; back to the hustle and bustle of El Tule where we bought local clothing and wandered the gauntlet of shops dispersed around the town's center.
Our original plan of departing tomorrow morning....cancelled.
One more day in Oaxaca!
Oaxaca
[Day Trip to Teotitlán del Valle]
Another day of exploring the small villages outside of Oaxaca. I left camp not overly excited or with high expectations; after all, I do not like Mezcal....[Pause & Truth Be Told]: I have never actually tried Mezcal but have taken the bold stance of consistently declaring I don't like it and refusing to try it....
[Back To The Topic At Hand]: Nor was I overly enthusiastic to learn about the ancient dying technique of rugs and spun wool by using local plants and insects. Oh was I wrong! Not about the mezcal; remember, I won't try it...I don't like it. Although the nerd in me, found the process of distilling the mezcal fascinating to learn about and observe. The 'fabrica' we visited is old school. The maguey plant is buried under a pile of dirt along with warm rocks; acting as an oven. A donkey is later used to pull a large stone wheel over the plant, to grind it up. Sam sampled various mezcals; with a side of ground up worms and orange slices, too. Yuck! I nearly puked in my mouth just watching the process. He purchased a few bottles [and a few small sacks of ground up worm mixed with chili and salt]... onward we went.
What began as a spontaneous stop on the outskirts of town quickly transpired into my favorite of all 34 days of travel. I fell in love with the couple who worked at the tapestry and wool store. Nearly an hour and a half was spent shopping and learning about their family tradition and practices of preparing, dying and transforming wool into beautiful rugs.
Locals came out of the shops to greet us as we strolled by; several bored shopkeepers began conversations with us, as if we had met years before. We sat down for lunch in the living room of a home offering a typical set lunch menu as well as the sale of handmade tapestries and wool rugs. We spent an hour or more observing the working of their household; grandma labored outback caring for the chickens, grandpa worked the loom ever so slowly and delicately and the dad popped his head in and out of the kitchen, as mom prepared our lunch. Our dogs rested under the table after a long day of site seeing alongside of us.
With our newly discovered knowledge and respect for the local traditions of this tiny village, we drove away; back to the hustle and bustle of El Tule where we bought local clothing and wandered the gauntlet of shops dispersed around the town's center.
Our original plan of departing tomorrow morning....cancelled.
One more day in Oaxaca!
Day 30 ~ July 26, 2014
Oaxaca
An easy day relaxing at our campsite, after another trip to the 'llantera' to rotate the tires. We discovered a golf ball size tumor on the side wall of the tire a few days back; most likely from hitting a pothole. Several people reassured us it was safe but encouraged us to rotate the tires before driving north, as a precaution. The car was washed, loaded up and the ceramic goods were meticulously placed in preparation for many bumps and jolts along the highway. Sam had been bugging me for a haircut for the past few weeks. My one rule when I cut his hair [yep, I am responsible for his impeccable style]....my one rule: I can cut it however I like and he can't complain; not a peep. So, he gingerly sat while I carved out the perfect rat tail.
Oaxaca
An easy day relaxing at our campsite, after another trip to the 'llantera' to rotate the tires. We discovered a golf ball size tumor on the side wall of the tire a few days back; most likely from hitting a pothole. Several people reassured us it was safe but encouraged us to rotate the tires before driving north, as a precaution. The car was washed, loaded up and the ceramic goods were meticulously placed in preparation for many bumps and jolts along the highway. Sam had been bugging me for a haircut for the past few weeks. My one rule when I cut his hair [yep, I am responsible for his impeccable style]....my one rule: I can cut it however I like and he can't complain; not a peep. So, he gingerly sat while I carved out the perfect rat tail.
Day 31 ~ July 27, 2014
Oaxaca to Cholula
States Traveled: Oaxaca & Puebla
High 84 Low 54
8465 ft. above sea level
Population: 118,170
Camped at RV Park Las Americas
We awoke early to the rain dancing upon the canvas material of our tent. After the rainstorm passed, we loaded up our car and bid our farewells to the Overlander Oasis [a sanctuary you must visit when traveling through Oaxaca]. Calvin and Leanne are fantastic hosts with endless knowledge and talents, kind hearts and a passion for travel.
We successfully bypassed Mexico city via the Arco Norte highway; pulling into Cholula mid afternoon, with the RV park to ourselves. Sam stocked up on groceries for the remaining days of our trip and I made a long overdue visit to get my eyebrows and mustache waxed [Gasp! Did she just admit to having a mustache?...come on ladies, most of us have a little peach fuzz residing on our upper lip....and, not all of us are fortunate enough to be blonde haired beauties].
Being creatures of habit, we found ourselves back in the main plaza for dinner. Sundays in Cholula are lovely for people watching.....kids flying kites, families strolling along enjoying their time together and lovers walking hand in hand [some a bit more brave fondled each other undisturbed by the voyeurs lurking in the crowd] .
We returned to camp for a game of bocce ball and a sunset drink. Ecstatic to see a truck with California plates roll into the RV park around sunset. The evening ended drinking warm tea with Sarah [originally from Austria] and Erdem [from Turkey] whom have both been residing in Los Angeles for many years. More than a month ago, they departed southbound and are slowly making their way towards Argentina. Sarah and Erdem are a super talented couple with interesting stories, a ton of travel experience as well as an incredible blog I am checking regularly for updates about their adventures at Nonurbia.
Oaxaca to Cholula
States Traveled: Oaxaca & Puebla
High 84 Low 54
8465 ft. above sea level
Population: 118,170
Camped at RV Park Las Americas
We awoke early to the rain dancing upon the canvas material of our tent. After the rainstorm passed, we loaded up our car and bid our farewells to the Overlander Oasis [a sanctuary you must visit when traveling through Oaxaca]. Calvin and Leanne are fantastic hosts with endless knowledge and talents, kind hearts and a passion for travel.
We successfully bypassed Mexico city via the Arco Norte highway; pulling into Cholula mid afternoon, with the RV park to ourselves. Sam stocked up on groceries for the remaining days of our trip and I made a long overdue visit to get my eyebrows and mustache waxed [Gasp! Did she just admit to having a mustache?...come on ladies, most of us have a little peach fuzz residing on our upper lip....and, not all of us are fortunate enough to be blonde haired beauties].
Being creatures of habit, we found ourselves back in the main plaza for dinner. Sundays in Cholula are lovely for people watching.....kids flying kites, families strolling along enjoying their time together and lovers walking hand in hand [some a bit more brave fondled each other undisturbed by the voyeurs lurking in the crowd] .
We returned to camp for a game of bocce ball and a sunset drink. Ecstatic to see a truck with California plates roll into the RV park around sunset. The evening ended drinking warm tea with Sarah [originally from Austria] and Erdem [from Turkey] whom have both been residing in Los Angeles for many years. More than a month ago, they departed southbound and are slowly making their way towards Argentina. Sarah and Erdem are a super talented couple with interesting stories, a ton of travel experience as well as an incredible blog I am checking regularly for updates about their adventures at Nonurbia.
Day 32 ~ July 28, 2014
Cholula to Queretaro
[Cold morning departure from Cholula]
States Traveled: Queretaro, Mexico, Tlaxcla & Puebla
High 80 Low 58
5,961 ft. above sea level
Population: 1,930,000
Stayed at El Serafín Hotel
I nonchalantly wiped away the tears rolling out from underneath my sunglasses. Admitting to Sam, I was having a hard time seeing as we drove north away from Cholula through the rolling hills and Joshua trees. I purposefully drove slower; knowing our trip was coming to an end, trying to delay it any way I could. The tears symbolized the memories of our trip; the joys, pains, lessons learned, people met, time spent with Sam and what have ya's.
As if listening intently, the universe dealt us a blow which slowed our trip and gifted us with a new destination. About an hour or so out of Queretaro, the car kept slipping out of fifth gear....no grinding, just a quick, silent slip into neutral. Typically, no matter how isolated you are in Mexico there is a mechanic nearby. We found a roadside mechanic and consulted him and his mentor. Both agreed they could not work on this particular problem and Queretaro was the best place to fix a transmission. We contemplated our options: call a tow truck which is included in our car insurance package or drive the distance in fourth gear. A nearby truck driver, the mechanic and a woman who lived next door to the shop prepared a list of emergency numbers for us; in the case we broke down, before our destination. We drove carefully, bound to fourth gear along the three lane modern highway teaming with afternoon traffic.
Many u-turns later, we pulled into the Suzuki dealership and pleaded for a mechanic to give it a quick look. After a test drive the mechanic determined it was best to come back at 8 a.m for a full inspection of the transmission. A hundred or so phone calls later, we found a fancy boutique hotel which accepted our 'service dogs'. Oh god, did I really just tell the hotel we were traveling with two service dogs in hopes of pity and a yes, we accept dogs? Sancho was sternly warned to be on his best behavior for the next 24 hours as we flagged down a taxi to guide us to the center of town where our hotel was located. And to our luck, our taxi driver became our 'crutch' for the 24 hours we resided in Queretaro. He encouraged us to call him for rides or local advice. Thank you Francisco....endless good karma coming your way for your random acts of kindness for stranded strangers.
Cholula to Queretaro
[Cold morning departure from Cholula]
States Traveled: Queretaro, Mexico, Tlaxcla & Puebla
High 80 Low 58
5,961 ft. above sea level
Population: 1,930,000
Stayed at El Serafín Hotel
I nonchalantly wiped away the tears rolling out from underneath my sunglasses. Admitting to Sam, I was having a hard time seeing as we drove north away from Cholula through the rolling hills and Joshua trees. I purposefully drove slower; knowing our trip was coming to an end, trying to delay it any way I could. The tears symbolized the memories of our trip; the joys, pains, lessons learned, people met, time spent with Sam and what have ya's.
As if listening intently, the universe dealt us a blow which slowed our trip and gifted us with a new destination. About an hour or so out of Queretaro, the car kept slipping out of fifth gear....no grinding, just a quick, silent slip into neutral. Typically, no matter how isolated you are in Mexico there is a mechanic nearby. We found a roadside mechanic and consulted him and his mentor. Both agreed they could not work on this particular problem and Queretaro was the best place to fix a transmission. We contemplated our options: call a tow truck which is included in our car insurance package or drive the distance in fourth gear. A nearby truck driver, the mechanic and a woman who lived next door to the shop prepared a list of emergency numbers for us; in the case we broke down, before our destination. We drove carefully, bound to fourth gear along the three lane modern highway teaming with afternoon traffic.
Many u-turns later, we pulled into the Suzuki dealership and pleaded for a mechanic to give it a quick look. After a test drive the mechanic determined it was best to come back at 8 a.m for a full inspection of the transmission. A hundred or so phone calls later, we found a fancy boutique hotel which accepted our 'service dogs'. Oh god, did I really just tell the hotel we were traveling with two service dogs in hopes of pity and a yes, we accept dogs? Sancho was sternly warned to be on his best behavior for the next 24 hours as we flagged down a taxi to guide us to the center of town where our hotel was located. And to our luck, our taxi driver became our 'crutch' for the 24 hours we resided in Queretaro. He encouraged us to call him for rides or local advice. Thank you Francisco....endless good karma coming your way for your random acts of kindness for stranded strangers.
Day 33~ July 29, 2014
Queretaro to Guanajuato
States Traveled: Queretaro & Guanajuato
High 77 Low 56
6,489 ft. above sea level
Population: 200,000
Stayed at Buganville RV Park
Francisco the 'taxista' guided Sam back along the maze of crowded roads from 'el centro' to the Suzuki dealership, early in the morning. Afterwards he took Sam to various hotels to try and find a more affordable pet friendly hotel. At noon, we would either move our stuff to a new hotel a few blocks away or pick up our car and start our drive; once again, inching us closer to home. Mid day came around and Suzuki informed us the parts needed would take three to four days to arrive plus additional time for the labor. Their advice: drive home and hold it in fifth gear, so it doesn't pop out. Huh? Once again, we called Francisco. We needed to hear this advice one more time, in person to verify our Spanish had not deceived us. By two o'clock we were barreling down the highway...taking turns holding it in fifth gear. A couple's team building opportunity presenting itself;
'my arm is cramping can you take it?
Ready?
Ok, I got it.
Switch'.
Fortunately, the unsolicited couple's therapy experience went fine [if you have ever kayaked or canoed with a loved one....you understand the potential for disaster; that could have been].
As we drove, we were unsure of our destination. Arrive to Tequila by night fall or an easy two hour drive to Guanajuato? Francisco called us an hour into our drive; curious to know if we had left town and wanting to give us a small gift. Unfortunately, we will probably never see this kind soul again.
We chose Guanajuato and quickly arrived to Buganville RV park located just outside of town. Nobody was around, so we bolted for another campground in town. While driving slowly down the dirt road back onto the highway a loud piercing sound wailed from the back tires. Stop! We pulled up the hood of the car just off the main highway to indicate we were broken down. Two men in a truck offered to notify their uncle, who knew of a local mechanic. A short ten minutes later, a man drove up; not any man, the owner of the nearby RV park. The local mechanic was accustomed to working on the big motorhomes which passed through town and agreed to meet us back at the RV park, after a quick call from the owner. Within thirty minutes the car was up on jacks and both back tires off. The brake pads had shifted around. The problem was fixed over a few cold beers, as well as, another tire rotation to move the 'golf ball sized tumor tire' to the front; once again.
We were the only ones at the large campground; it felt lonely and extremely quiet.
Queretaro to Guanajuato
States Traveled: Queretaro & Guanajuato
High 77 Low 56
6,489 ft. above sea level
Population: 200,000
Stayed at Buganville RV Park
Francisco the 'taxista' guided Sam back along the maze of crowded roads from 'el centro' to the Suzuki dealership, early in the morning. Afterwards he took Sam to various hotels to try and find a more affordable pet friendly hotel. At noon, we would either move our stuff to a new hotel a few blocks away or pick up our car and start our drive; once again, inching us closer to home. Mid day came around and Suzuki informed us the parts needed would take three to four days to arrive plus additional time for the labor. Their advice: drive home and hold it in fifth gear, so it doesn't pop out. Huh? Once again, we called Francisco. We needed to hear this advice one more time, in person to verify our Spanish had not deceived us. By two o'clock we were barreling down the highway...taking turns holding it in fifth gear. A couple's team building opportunity presenting itself;
'my arm is cramping can you take it?
Ready?
Ok, I got it.
Switch'.
Fortunately, the unsolicited couple's therapy experience went fine [if you have ever kayaked or canoed with a loved one....you understand the potential for disaster; that could have been].
As we drove, we were unsure of our destination. Arrive to Tequila by night fall or an easy two hour drive to Guanajuato? Francisco called us an hour into our drive; curious to know if we had left town and wanting to give us a small gift. Unfortunately, we will probably never see this kind soul again.
We chose Guanajuato and quickly arrived to Buganville RV park located just outside of town. Nobody was around, so we bolted for another campground in town. While driving slowly down the dirt road back onto the highway a loud piercing sound wailed from the back tires. Stop! We pulled up the hood of the car just off the main highway to indicate we were broken down. Two men in a truck offered to notify their uncle, who knew of a local mechanic. A short ten minutes later, a man drove up; not any man, the owner of the nearby RV park. The local mechanic was accustomed to working on the big motorhomes which passed through town and agreed to meet us back at the RV park, after a quick call from the owner. Within thirty minutes the car was up on jacks and both back tires off. The brake pads had shifted around. The problem was fixed over a few cold beers, as well as, another tire rotation to move the 'golf ball sized tumor tire' to the front; once again.
We were the only ones at the large campground; it felt lonely and extremely quiet.
Day 34 ~ July 30, 2014
Guanajuato to La Cruz de Huanacaxtle
States Traveled: Guanuajuato, Jalisco & Nayarit
93 High Humidity 77
30 ft. above sea level
Population: 1,650
Stayed at Casa Fuber! [Home At Last]
The tires were rolling forward and our coffee mugs filled with Oxxo coffee before sunrise! Casa Fuber was the desired destination....but we had grown wiser over the past five weeks. Our destination would be determined by a culmination of factors; much greater than ourselves. Glutenous tire eating potholes, brave people standing up for their rights and beliefs whom block the highway with their pleas and demands, breakdowns and glitches of our beloved chariot and belly blow outs!
With this new mindset, we were very content and intrigued with what the day had in store for us.
We parked the car and released the dogs, as the late afternoon sun beat down with fury. All of us thrilled to see the house for the first time in weeks. Each of us having grown in various forms from this adventure. As for me, the most obvious transformations: my legs have a new found strength from hovering over the dirty toilet bowls; absent of seats, for the past five weeks. I have regained trust in strangers and have been reminded of the value of random acts of kindness towards others. Our Spanish has improved; often catching others off guard, expecting us to hold conversations in English or broken Spanish.
We are home! We did it!
'It' being defined as driving and camping across fourteen states of the Republic of Mexico. A journey which I will forever hold dear to my heart. A road trip with your most beloved [and your furry four legged companions] through a foreign country is an experience of a lifetime!
I have my grandparents to thank for exposing me to this style of travel at an early age. Today, I yearn to maintain the mindset of a traveler living a simple life with all of my essential needs [plus many luxuries] loaded inside of our small car.
....For the record, I have already busted out the atlas to plan our next big Mexico By Road Adventure!
Baja Baby!
Guanajuato to La Cruz de Huanacaxtle
States Traveled: Guanuajuato, Jalisco & Nayarit
93 High Humidity 77
30 ft. above sea level
Population: 1,650
Stayed at Casa Fuber! [Home At Last]
The tires were rolling forward and our coffee mugs filled with Oxxo coffee before sunrise! Casa Fuber was the desired destination....but we had grown wiser over the past five weeks. Our destination would be determined by a culmination of factors; much greater than ourselves. Glutenous tire eating potholes, brave people standing up for their rights and beliefs whom block the highway with their pleas and demands, breakdowns and glitches of our beloved chariot and belly blow outs!
With this new mindset, we were very content and intrigued with what the day had in store for us.
We parked the car and released the dogs, as the late afternoon sun beat down with fury. All of us thrilled to see the house for the first time in weeks. Each of us having grown in various forms from this adventure. As for me, the most obvious transformations: my legs have a new found strength from hovering over the dirty toilet bowls; absent of seats, for the past five weeks. I have regained trust in strangers and have been reminded of the value of random acts of kindness towards others. Our Spanish has improved; often catching others off guard, expecting us to hold conversations in English or broken Spanish.
We are home! We did it!
'It' being defined as driving and camping across fourteen states of the Republic of Mexico. A journey which I will forever hold dear to my heart. A road trip with your most beloved [and your furry four legged companions] through a foreign country is an experience of a lifetime!
I have my grandparents to thank for exposing me to this style of travel at an early age. Today, I yearn to maintain the mindset of a traveler living a simple life with all of my essential needs [plus many luxuries] loaded inside of our small car.
....For the record, I have already busted out the atlas to plan our next big Mexico By Road Adventure!
Baja Baby!
