"If you are going to be traveling in Mexico, you'd better not be too attached to your plans".
This phrase has become our mantra; bringing sanity during the most difficult section of our trip, mentally speaking. This phrase presented in the book God's Middle Finger by Richard Grant was read shortly before making our first trip south of the border; two years ago. Back then, I thought I understood its connotation. Wrong.
Many tears and fits of frustration later [dare I say, borderline tantrums] I've slowly begun to comprehend the significance of this passage and am learning to abide to the forces which change my intended path.
Sneaky ole' Mexico...you are teaching this old dog a new thing or two.
This phrase has become our mantra; bringing sanity during the most difficult section of our trip, mentally speaking. This phrase presented in the book God's Middle Finger by Richard Grant was read shortly before making our first trip south of the border; two years ago. Back then, I thought I understood its connotation. Wrong.
Many tears and fits of frustration later [dare I say, borderline tantrums] I've slowly begun to comprehend the significance of this passage and am learning to abide to the forces which change my intended path.
Sneaky ole' Mexico...you are teaching this old dog a new thing or two.
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Could this be the first 'selfie' taken from the back of a federale vehicle?
Day 21~ July 17, 2014
Chetumal to Palenque
States Traveled: Quintana Roo, Campeche, Tabasco & Chiapas
High 95 Humidity 89%
43 ft. above sea level
Population: 43,000
Stayed at Kin Balam
The emissions light on the dashboard has been on for the past day. Today as we started the engine for our next destination, we agreed to turn back to camp if the light did not go off after one hour of driving. The manufacturers manual sited improper positioning of the gas cap as a possible explanation or letting the gas tank run too low; which we certainly did the day prior. As our front tires rolled out of the campsite, the light snuffed out; hoots and hollers ensued. Next stop...Palenque, Chiapas! So Wrong. The next stop came in the middle of nowhere. We had been warned multiple times from the flashing lights, by head-on traffic, something was awaiting us ahead. We approached a long line of trucks and a few vehicles. I urged Sam to drive on the wrong side of the two lane highway; ensuring him approaching traffic had enough room to go around us, in their emergency lane. We passed a line of large trucks for nearly half a mile until we queued up behind other passenger vehicles; still occupying the wrong side of the highway. We had seen this before and had a good feeling it was a protest blocking the road. We learned from previous experiences several of the best tactics for a roadblock in Mexico: 1. Get up front as close as you can [meaning drive past everyone else wanting to do the same thing], 2. Use the time to practice your Spanish [most people are super curious about the foreigners and want to take care of you], 3. Sit back and relax [it could be a while]. I ventured out of the car, walking to the large tree trunk and chanting protestors; standing along several federales and other onlookers, casually observing the situation. Every 20-30 minutes a federale walked over to the protestors and encouraged them to allow several cars to sneak through the line. Taking their sweet time, the protestors would finish their rant, move several of the trucks which were blocking the sidelines of the highway, push the tree trunk aside and finally allow 5 or so vehicles to precede past. Each time the protestors made these moves, the spectators standing at the front line quickly ran back through traffic, to move their own vehicle forward several feet. To Sam's entertainment, I galloped alongside the crowd; back to where he was positioned at the car. And so it went for two more hours. As one of the federale officers walked back to his compadres, he triple took on me standing alongside the highway. [An almost] 6 foot tall gringa tends to stand out in a crowd of Mexicans. He quickly came over and asked what vehicle I was in. 'Over there...the grey car with my husband standing outside', I replied. 'The ugly guy', he joked. I resisted the urge to playfully hit him just as my hand was in the forward motion towards his arm. He smiled and assured me he would get us through in the next 30-40 minutes. And, he did. Grinning and waving as he pushed a long line of traffic through; closing the line, just after our car.
We arrived late in the afternoon to Palenque, Chiapas as the jungle was at it's steamiest. We drove into my most anticipated campsite, The Mayabell. The humidity and heat smacked the crap out of us as we exited the car. We quickly jumped back into the car and searched for a pet friendly cabaña with a fan. We had eyes on us from the moment we arrived to our jungle hut. Two young girls began to play on the tree just in front of the porch; looking back often, to see if we were watching them. Their curiosity quickly brought them onto our porch. Not minutes later, their brother appeared from the tin shack which dwelled just across the dirt parking lot. The children showed no shyness while we prepared pizzas for the camp grill. I had to continually remind the youngest, 5 year old Lupita, not to touch the food we were cutting up. I am still unsure if they had ever seen a pizza before and can positively say based upon their questioning they had never seen a red or yellow bell pepper. Enjoying their curious nature but wanting to eat in peace; with the chanting of the overhead howler monkeys, I asked if they wanted to make a pizza to take home. We taught them how to assemble the pie, reassured them we would see them in the morning and reminded 'Lupita the firecracker' she should not come over until we came out to the porch in the morning.
Day 22 ~ July 18, 2014
Palenque Ruins
An early rise to visit the ruins nestled throughout the thick jungle. Upon exiting our hut, Juan was the first of the children to greet us; holding his infant brother gently in his own eleven year old arms. We made a quick escape to the highway to catch a bus uphill to the ruins. The majority of the structures have yet to be excavated; covered in dense forest, for the adventurous visitor to explore. The Palenque ruins are the first ruins we have visited which can be climbed. We scaled and descended a billion steps until our legs couldn't take another step. By mid afternoon, we were defeated and wearily explored only a selected few structures before departing [flopping down a million more stairs back to the bus].
We relaxed on the porch of our hut, until Lupita and the crew spotted us. We spent the early evening playing Uno with the kids before sending them home, drawing the curtains and relaxing inside to the sound of the jungle. Last chore before bedtime...jimmy-rig a mosquito net over the bed with our tapestry and surfboard tie downs. There is no way those mosquitos will win tonight!
Palenque Ruins
An early rise to visit the ruins nestled throughout the thick jungle. Upon exiting our hut, Juan was the first of the children to greet us; holding his infant brother gently in his own eleven year old arms. We made a quick escape to the highway to catch a bus uphill to the ruins. The majority of the structures have yet to be excavated; covered in dense forest, for the adventurous visitor to explore. The Palenque ruins are the first ruins we have visited which can be climbed. We scaled and descended a billion steps until our legs couldn't take another step. By mid afternoon, we were defeated and wearily explored only a selected few structures before departing [flopping down a million more stairs back to the bus].
We relaxed on the porch of our hut, until Lupita and the crew spotted us. We spent the early evening playing Uno with the kids before sending them home, drawing the curtains and relaxing inside to the sound of the jungle. Last chore before bedtime...jimmy-rig a mosquito net over the bed with our tapestry and surfboard tie downs. There is no way those mosquitos will win tonight!
Feeling a little backwards today....Day 23.
Day 23 ~ July 19, 2014
Palenque to San Cristobal de Las Casas
[Protests blocking the road led us to stay in Villahermosa]
States Traveled: Chiapas & Tabasco
High 101 Humidity 66 %
76 ft. above sea level
Population: 659,000
Stayed at Omeca Plaza
The day I have been waiting for...San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas. The isolated mountain highway intimidated me but I pushed my worries aside after speaking with multiple people about the drive. Shortly into our drive, Zapatista propaganda appeared [Zapotistas are the revolutionary group seeking indigenous control over local resources which have been taken away by the Mexican government]. The mountainous curves of the highway left little room for error; a precipitous tumble down the ravine, being the worst result. The poverty of the roadside shanties due to their extreme remoteness was glaring. Children selling banana chips or other goodies ran alongside your car begging you to buy, as you slowed for a speed bump or a rope being held across the highway. The first rope we approached was held by several young girls. We offered a few pesos in order to cross their barricade. Their faces were pressed onto the passenger side window, pleading us to buy their goods for more than the petty pesos we were offering. As a truck approached from the other direction, full speed ahead, the girls scattered off the road; the others releasing the rope, for the truck to drive over. Uh huh, this is how it goes, I thought. Not long after, our next rope blockade; the colorful strips of cloth strung along the rope warning me to stop. I revved the engine and punched it; keeping my eyes intently on the rope holders, praying they dropped it. The next six or seven went the same. Driver and passenger confirming it was a rope and not a chain before pursuing a quick game of chicken. We began to notice it was also somewhat of a game for the girls, as they laughed and smiled at our bravery.
Two hours into our drive, a familiar scene arouse. A long line of trucks stopped along the highway. Once again, we drove head-on into traffic getting as close as we could to the tree trunk and buses which thwarted our passage forward. Sam walked to the frontline, but nobody was there. No police, no protestors. Buses and taxis continued to drive to the front, on both sides, dropping off passengers. The passengers walked over the tree trunk with their belongings and were quickly swept off, to their final destination. As we waited by our car, a group of men walked through traffic handing out a newsletter. The newsletter informed travelers about their protest. Several bus drivers had been kidnapped, others attacked and buses and vans vandalized by a group of men. Their protest solicited police protection. After waiting three and a half hours, we flipped a coin. Heads: we wait it out; driving back to Palenque with enough time to arrive before nightfall. Tails: make the four to five hour drive to Villahermosa and approach from a different highway the following day. Tails. We turned and drove off; arriving to a swanky hotel, the only one which accepted dogs.
Note: We have heard since, this is a popular place to stop traffic and try to collect a few pesos.
Palenque to San Cristobal de Las Casas
[Protests blocking the road led us to stay in Villahermosa]
States Traveled: Chiapas & Tabasco
High 101 Humidity 66 %
76 ft. above sea level
Population: 659,000
Stayed at Omeca Plaza
The day I have been waiting for...San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas. The isolated mountain highway intimidated me but I pushed my worries aside after speaking with multiple people about the drive. Shortly into our drive, Zapatista propaganda appeared [Zapotistas are the revolutionary group seeking indigenous control over local resources which have been taken away by the Mexican government]. The mountainous curves of the highway left little room for error; a precipitous tumble down the ravine, being the worst result. The poverty of the roadside shanties due to their extreme remoteness was glaring. Children selling banana chips or other goodies ran alongside your car begging you to buy, as you slowed for a speed bump or a rope being held across the highway. The first rope we approached was held by several young girls. We offered a few pesos in order to cross their barricade. Their faces were pressed onto the passenger side window, pleading us to buy their goods for more than the petty pesos we were offering. As a truck approached from the other direction, full speed ahead, the girls scattered off the road; the others releasing the rope, for the truck to drive over. Uh huh, this is how it goes, I thought. Not long after, our next rope blockade; the colorful strips of cloth strung along the rope warning me to stop. I revved the engine and punched it; keeping my eyes intently on the rope holders, praying they dropped it. The next six or seven went the same. Driver and passenger confirming it was a rope and not a chain before pursuing a quick game of chicken. We began to notice it was also somewhat of a game for the girls, as they laughed and smiled at our bravery.
Two hours into our drive, a familiar scene arouse. A long line of trucks stopped along the highway. Once again, we drove head-on into traffic getting as close as we could to the tree trunk and buses which thwarted our passage forward. Sam walked to the frontline, but nobody was there. No police, no protestors. Buses and taxis continued to drive to the front, on both sides, dropping off passengers. The passengers walked over the tree trunk with their belongings and were quickly swept off, to their final destination. As we waited by our car, a group of men walked through traffic handing out a newsletter. The newsletter informed travelers about their protest. Several bus drivers had been kidnapped, others attacked and buses and vans vandalized by a group of men. Their protest solicited police protection. After waiting three and a half hours, we flipped a coin. Heads: we wait it out; driving back to Palenque with enough time to arrive before nightfall. Tails: make the four to five hour drive to Villahermosa and approach from a different highway the following day. Tails. We turned and drove off; arriving to a swanky hotel, the only one which accepted dogs.
Note: We have heard since, this is a popular place to stop traffic and try to collect a few pesos.
Day 24 ~ July 20, 2014
Villahermosa to San Cristobal de las Casas
[Back to Villahermosa...ugggh!]
States Traveled: Tabasco & Chiapas [Back to Tabasco]
Stayed at Omeca Plaza
Attempt #2 to make it to San Cristobal de las Casas. The highway was treacherous; portions of the narrow road swept away and missing, just after a hairpin turn. We never accelerated above 40 miles per hour; averaging 15-20mph, with 156 miles to our destination. The mountainous jungle scenery was spectacular, but I couldn't push any further. After two and a half hours, I broke down in frustration. We calculated our arrival just before sunset. Frustrated and defeated, I asked Sam if we could turn back. The hotel staff was baffled by our return in Villahermosa; understanding our decision after hearing about the road we selected. Although the toll highway looks a lot farther north in the road atlas, it is the better option. Conquered, I recoiled in the comfort of the hotel room; watching a marathon of Sex in the City episodes, in Spanish. Disappointed in not arriving to our destination [and perhaps in my own impatience with my beloved husband and favorite travel partner]. We agreed to move on.
San Cristobal de las Casas, nos vemos another time.
Villahermosa to San Cristobal de las Casas
[Back to Villahermosa...ugggh!]
States Traveled: Tabasco & Chiapas [Back to Tabasco]
Stayed at Omeca Plaza
Attempt #2 to make it to San Cristobal de las Casas. The highway was treacherous; portions of the narrow road swept away and missing, just after a hairpin turn. We never accelerated above 40 miles per hour; averaging 15-20mph, with 156 miles to our destination. The mountainous jungle scenery was spectacular, but I couldn't push any further. After two and a half hours, I broke down in frustration. We calculated our arrival just before sunset. Frustrated and defeated, I asked Sam if we could turn back. The hotel staff was baffled by our return in Villahermosa; understanding our decision after hearing about the road we selected. Although the toll highway looks a lot farther north in the road atlas, it is the better option. Conquered, I recoiled in the comfort of the hotel room; watching a marathon of Sex in the City episodes, in Spanish. Disappointed in not arriving to our destination [and perhaps in my own impatience with my beloved husband and favorite travel partner]. We agreed to move on.
San Cristobal de las Casas, nos vemos another time.
Day 25 ~ July 21, 2014
Villahermosa to Orizaba
States Traveled: Tabasco & Veracruz
High 82 Low 59
4,131 ft. above sea level
Population: 117,000
Stayed at Gran Hotel de France
Orizaba was a pleasant surprise. We had planned on stopping on the way south, but couldn't find camping. Today's plan: a long push to Oaxaca; arriving shortly before sunset, assuming no traffic. The spontaneous decision to stay in Orizaba was made as we drove by the 16, 404 foot snow capped volcano peeking out of the clouds. First two hotels we called accepted dogs. Flip a bitch...back to Orizaba!
We wandered the streets. Enjoying the brilliant propaganda displayed across town: 'Smile You're in Orizaba'. And smile we did, for the first time in several days. Not sure if it was because we were in Orizaba or because we were no longer in Villahermosa. Regardless, we displayed our toothy grins as we meandered around town; happy to be on the road and back in the flow.
Villahermosa to Orizaba
States Traveled: Tabasco & Veracruz
High 82 Low 59
4,131 ft. above sea level
Population: 117,000
Stayed at Gran Hotel de France
Orizaba was a pleasant surprise. We had planned on stopping on the way south, but couldn't find camping. Today's plan: a long push to Oaxaca; arriving shortly before sunset, assuming no traffic. The spontaneous decision to stay in Orizaba was made as we drove by the 16, 404 foot snow capped volcano peeking out of the clouds. First two hotels we called accepted dogs. Flip a bitch...back to Orizaba!
We wandered the streets. Enjoying the brilliant propaganda displayed across town: 'Smile You're in Orizaba'. And smile we did, for the first time in several days. Not sure if it was because we were in Orizaba or because we were no longer in Villahermosa. Regardless, we displayed our toothy grins as we meandered around town; happy to be on the road and back in the flow.
Day 26 ~ July 22, 2014
Orizaba to Oaxaca
States Traveled: Veracruz, Puebla & Oaxaca
High 82 Low 52
5,013 ft. above sea level
Population: 270,000
Camped at Overlander Oasis
The twisty drive along the toll road to Oaxaca is stunning. Fields of cacti and giant red slabs of rock reminiscent of the scenery and immenseness of the western United States. Ten minutes before Oaxaca City, we slammed on the brakes. All four of us were on the verge of an absolute freak out; pending the reason for our stoppage. We were not far from the front and it was quickly evident a nasty accident just occurred. I nervously walked to the accident; assessing the scene, knowing my wilderness medic training could be offered. As I approached, paramedics and police were barreling down the emergency lane; horn screeching, to move cars out of their way. Thankfully a toll booth just a few miles back housed paramedics and the response time was impressive. We were back on the road quickly; sending our best thoughts to the people carried away in the ambulance. It couldn't have been good based upon the metal carnage we passed.
We camped at Overlander Oasis in El Tule; a small town on the outskirts of the city, which is home to the widest tree in the world. The Canadian hosts began overlanding in their pimped out 1950's greyhound bus many years ago and are experts on traveling. They bought a place in El Tule and offer their extra space to other travelers whom are making the long haul through Mexico [or destinations farther south]. Reunited with our tent, we settled in. Happy as can be for cool weather, spectacular hosts & location; as well as, a few days of exploring the area.
Orizaba to Oaxaca
States Traveled: Veracruz, Puebla & Oaxaca
High 82 Low 52
5,013 ft. above sea level
Population: 270,000
Camped at Overlander Oasis
The twisty drive along the toll road to Oaxaca is stunning. Fields of cacti and giant red slabs of rock reminiscent of the scenery and immenseness of the western United States. Ten minutes before Oaxaca City, we slammed on the brakes. All four of us were on the verge of an absolute freak out; pending the reason for our stoppage. We were not far from the front and it was quickly evident a nasty accident just occurred. I nervously walked to the accident; assessing the scene, knowing my wilderness medic training could be offered. As I approached, paramedics and police were barreling down the emergency lane; horn screeching, to move cars out of their way. Thankfully a toll booth just a few miles back housed paramedics and the response time was impressive. We were back on the road quickly; sending our best thoughts to the people carried away in the ambulance. It couldn't have been good based upon the metal carnage we passed.
We camped at Overlander Oasis in El Tule; a small town on the outskirts of the city, which is home to the widest tree in the world. The Canadian hosts began overlanding in their pimped out 1950's greyhound bus many years ago and are experts on traveling. They bought a place in El Tule and offer their extra space to other travelers whom are making the long haul through Mexico [or destinations farther south]. Reunited with our tent, we settled in. Happy as can be for cool weather, spectacular hosts & location; as well as, a few days of exploring the area.
Day 27 ~ July 23, 2014
Oaxaca City
The small town of El Tule has endless wonderful qualities, but the raddest of them all....the church bells. Every morning at 6 a.m the town is charmed awake by the ringing of Las Mañanitas; the traditional song sung to wake up the birthday boy or girl. Another round of bells chime at 6 p.m, belting out the Mexican National Anthem.
We ventured into the city to explore the Zócalo; the bustling town center, full of vendors and their goods, protestors camped out for 137 days [and counting] and the best street food in the country.
First stop...food. Second...wander aimlessly. Third...shopping at the 'Maro'.
The Mujeres Artesanas de las Regiones de Oaxaca building is a cooperative of over 400 women from around Oaxaca and it's surrounding pueblos offering a vast range of local arts and crafts. A pottery collecting, textile junkies wet dream and a husband who is waiting on the bench by the door while fireworks scare the living daylights out of the dogs...yep, their worst nightmare.
Oaxaca City
The small town of El Tule has endless wonderful qualities, but the raddest of them all....the church bells. Every morning at 6 a.m the town is charmed awake by the ringing of Las Mañanitas; the traditional song sung to wake up the birthday boy or girl. Another round of bells chime at 6 p.m, belting out the Mexican National Anthem.
We ventured into the city to explore the Zócalo; the bustling town center, full of vendors and their goods, protestors camped out for 137 days [and counting] and the best street food in the country.
First stop...food. Second...wander aimlessly. Third...shopping at the 'Maro'.
The Mujeres Artesanas de las Regiones de Oaxaca building is a cooperative of over 400 women from around Oaxaca and it's surrounding pueblos offering a vast range of local arts and crafts. A pottery collecting, textile junkies wet dream and a husband who is waiting on the bench by the door while fireworks scare the living daylights out of the dogs...yep, their worst nightmare.
Day 28~ July 24 2014
Oaxaca
[Day trip to San Bartolo Coyotepec, Santo Tomás Jalieza & San Antonio]
The local villages outside of the city are teaming with art. Each pueblo is known for a unique style of art or craft. The women [or on occasion a man] working at the stalls are friendly and there is not a hint of pushiness to buy. The black pottery of San Bartolo Coyotepec and Santo Tomás Jalieza's hand woven textile artists work as a collective; all profiting for a sale, according to the women I spoke with. We have refrained from buying souvenirs; other than coffee, in anticipation of our arrival to Oaxaca.
First purchases made: black pottery vases, hand woven rug, green pottery serving bowls and two hand woven table runners which we will hang on the wall.
Mezcal and clothes shopping tomorrow...really, is there any better combination!
Oaxaca
[Day trip to San Bartolo Coyotepec, Santo Tomás Jalieza & San Antonio]
The local villages outside of the city are teaming with art. Each pueblo is known for a unique style of art or craft. The women [or on occasion a man] working at the stalls are friendly and there is not a hint of pushiness to buy. The black pottery of San Bartolo Coyotepec and Santo Tomás Jalieza's hand woven textile artists work as a collective; all profiting for a sale, according to the women I spoke with. We have refrained from buying souvenirs; other than coffee, in anticipation of our arrival to Oaxaca.
First purchases made: black pottery vases, hand woven rug, green pottery serving bowls and two hand woven table runners which we will hang on the wall.
Mezcal and clothes shopping tomorrow...really, is there any better combination!
